Archive for June, 2007

Arrivederci, Svizzera. Buon giorno Italia!

We said good bye to Switzerland this afternoon, and we’ll miss it.  After parting ways with the rest of the Swenson clan and David in Brig, we were immediately introduced to a more non-Swiss form of transportation.  It was still a train, but not quite as clean or punctual.  We dropped precipitously through a tunnel directly through the Alps, Jayna’s ears popped, a customs guy glanced at the covers of our passports, and suddenly we were in Italy.

We’ve decided that the Italian countryside distinctly resembles Santa Barbara.  Rolling hills, red tile roofs, and copious vineyards gave the feeling of being at home on a summer day in a conveyance of a quality that, while not up to Swiss standards, still made plain the fact that we were far from the US.

Milan is full of hot people in a hurry (hot as in warm, not as in attractive).  For some reason, the curly mullet is still very popular.  I guess we really aren’t that far from Kandersteg, which was also a haven for this wayward haircut.

We’ve happily taken up residence at Camping Jolly on the mainland near Venice in an air-conditioned cabin with in-unit bathroom, shower, and fridge.  We never knew that these amenities would be so highly prized.  With full bellies (pizza and pasta are yummy and relatively cheap here) and that post-swim glow (yay for swimming pools in hot climates!), we’re about to go to sleep early because meeting is two hours away in Trieste tomorrow morning.

This computer is lame because despite the working USB and card reader slots, windows has been configured to ignore such things.  Photos will have to wait until we can get a more accomodating machine (hopefully in Venice proper).

All for now.  More later.

Grächen to Saas-Fee via the long route

In honor of our last day in Switzerland, we embarked on a “medium” hike (according to the aforementioned “Lonely Planet Walking in Switzerland” guide on crack) from Grächen to Saas-Fee.  The gondola was unfortunately closed, so we began walking up a steep path for about 45 minutes, until we reached an amazing playground.  Unable to pass up the opportunity to play on the double zip cord and long spiral slide, We all (including Shane’s mom) entertained ourselves for a while.

The total walk was supposed to take 6-8 hours (Kjirsten said we were above average hikers so we would probably finish on the early side), and a total ascent of 700 meters and around 15K long.  It ended up being 1330 meters of ascent, 1160 meters of descent, and took us over 9 hours.  We estimate it was more like 25K.  Good times.

There were severe drop offs and some areas of steep talus fields with posted rock fall warning signs.  I was in surprisingly good spirits, considering the fact that my feet feel like they need to be amputated.

Saas-Fee is my most favorite town that we have visited yet.  There is an incredible glacier and ice field high on the moutains that loom over the adorable town.  There are no cars, and all the houses and shops are wooden with colorful shutters and stone roofs.  We stuffed ourselves silly tonight in honor of our final night (last call for rösti!) and are psyching ourselves up for the 6:45am breakfast call so we can collect the rest of our stuff we left at last night’s pension and catch the train to Venice.

We tried to upload photos here, but the upstream connection is so slow that we couldn’t even get one up during the time it took to write this, and the proprieter is looking sleepy, so they will have to wait.  They’ll be worth it.  OK, so we got one.  This is the view down the street in Sass-Fee.  We have essentially the same view from our bedroom balcony.

Adios, Switzerland.  It’s been great!  I think I’ve finally gotten used to swapping my z’s and y’s and it’s time for a new keyboard layout.

Swiss Observations

In continued my “no hiking day” trend, and instead of taking a day hike up to the top of the peak behind the hut, I am sitting on the deck in the sun (writing in my journal, later to be blogged), gazing at the Matterhorn, sipping on some sparkling apple cider.  There is not a cloud in the sky, and the sound of distant cow and sheep bells can be heard coming from the valley.

We really only have another day and a half in Switzerland.  It’s gone incredibly fast. 

Some observations that I don’t want to forget:

Although the ads say that happy cows come from CA, I would have to disagree.  They come from Switzerland.  Although they still look really bored, the cows here all have bells and get to graye in tall green grass and flowers, while looking at views of spectacular peaks.  Harris Ranch would be the Folsom Prison of the cow realm.

Over 50% of all tourists here are from Japan.  They travel in swarms with bucket hats, umbrellas, and if there is a chance of showers, full brightly colored Goretex.  They are very prepared.  Some of the places we have been to have flown both a Swiss and a Japanese flag.  I think there is such a strong connection between the two countries because of the colors and simple shapes on their respective flags.

You don’t have to tip in restaurants, so as a result, waiters and waitresses don’t put on a smiley face if you ask questions or make requests that may or may not be “stupid.”  (Asking what a word means in English, or requesting dressing on the side).

The sheep/goats/yaks/hybrids get bells and are herded through the city streets and up hiking trails to higher grassy areas for the day.  And then they get herded back down.  The half black half white (front half and back half) goaty yaks walked down the main street in Zermatt every morning and afternoon.  Some of the babies would get distracted and fall behind, only to get collected by the sheep herder.  Aunika wants to be a sheep herder when she grows up.

There are other sheep that we encountered that look like they had a long white tight perm, black knee pads, and curly horns.  They looked like a cross between a sheep, alpaca, and Dixie (Aunika’s german wirehair that has a beard).

None of the hotels we’ve stayed at have supplied sheets.  There is a fitted sheet, pillow, and duvet or wool blanket.  We were prepared with our silk sleep sheets, but if you didn’t know about this trend, it would be unfortunate.  Also, there are no double beds, but two twin beds that are pushed together with a gap. Most of the hotels have a bathroom and shower for the whole floor, not in each room.  Most all of them have offered breakfast.  A table was reserved for us in the morning, and the standard bread, jam, cheese, yogurt, museli, cereal, hot cocoa and tea has been offered.

All public transportation is painfully on time.  On our train from Adelboden to Frutigen, we made a stop and around 25 girl scouts from Ohio attempted to board with all their bags in the rain.  Sensing that we would be delayed because of this, the driver told them to leave their bags and a later car would pick up their bags and deliver them to the station.  I do not know if they were successful or not.

The most popular soft drink here is Rivella, which contains “milk serum.”  It is absolutely disgusting.

All trails are very well marked with a white/red/white striped paint mark on occasional rocks and informative yellow markers on poles which tell the estimated time to various destinations.  The problem is that they are indicated in Swiss hours, which are about an hour faster than regular hours.

In the grocery store, mayo, ketchup, mustard and tomato paste come in aluminum squirt tubes.

Nutella, jam and a variation of Laughing Cow soft cheese is served with bread at nearly every meal.

No one appears to be thirsty.  When tap water is requested for the table, small juice glasses are filled, one for every person.  Refills are often granted, begrudgingly.

When passing people on the trail, everyone says hello in their own language: German, French, Italian, English or something less recognizable.

No one wears shorts except for us.  Capris are popular, though, for both men and women.

No one wears trail runners or hiking shoes except for us.  I’ve seen grandpas, chubby women in jeans and nuns all wearing hiking boots.  Although the rest of their outfits weren’t suited for hiking, their feet sure were.

The Swiss all carry very small day packs, if anything at all.

They keep their houses and yards impeccably neat and tidy.  This is especially obvious in their immaculate wood piles and manicured gardens.

The cars are all small and I have only seen two SUVs.  No Hummers or Escalades.

The door keys and locks are all smooth.  Instead of a jagged edge, most keys have smooth sides and various round dents on the face.  The doors all have a lip so you can’t open it with a credit card.  In one hotel, they had an electronic key card.  The doork knob would spin in any direction and not catch until the card was inserted.  David had a room to himself.  He had unpacked, grabbed stuff for his shower and shut his door.  When he tried to get back in, the key didn’t work.  The guy from the front desk had no luck with his master key, and it was apparent that eh had no back up plan when he suggested that we add an extra bed to our room.  When we explained that all David’s things were in the room, he went next door to Kjirsten’s room to see if he could climb out the 4th floor window into David’s room.  Luckilz the key just started working again for no apparent reason.

Aunika has an odd case of one-off hiccup-squawks.  Since she gets everzone’s attention, we require her to tell us a fact after each one.  Her sources are often in question, though, as she has claimed that pineapples and cotton come from trees and that our solar system is called the Milky Way.

I finally understand Kjirsten.  She thinks peaks and views are like Pokemon: You gotta collect them all.

A no hiking day was declared

Wed., June 27, 2007.  I declared that today would be a no hiking day.  While the rest of the group walked from Zermatt to the Fluhalp Hut, Aunika and I slept in, went shopping, ate bratwurst on a curb while people watching, bought dessert crepes, and took them back to the hotel to eat and read books.  A bit later we packed up our stuff, went and got 9 truffles to share, and then headed to the funnicular (diagonal train through the mountain) and then the gondola to the hut.  It started snowing on our 35 minute walk up the hill to the hut, so we decided that we put in enough effort to earn dinner.

At the gondola station, we saw another pack of black and white yacks eating the paint off the stairway of the restaurant.  Odd.

There was an article in the hut that talked about the best skiing areas in the world.  Utah got the best snow conditions, and Fluhalp got the best cuisine!

When we were walking to the hut, we couldn’t understand why it was such a popular destination.  The clouds were low, just exposing the brown talus and muddy stream in the canyon.  It wasn’t until after dinner when the clouds lifted and the alpen glow struck the Matterhorn and surrounding snow-covered peaks that we understood.  The view from up here is spectacular.

More Zermatt

We stayed in the top floor 20 person dorm at the Hotel Banhoff, next to the train station.  Many of the European men walked around in their very small bikini briefs, without a care in the world.  Slightly disturbing.

As a reward for the day’s work, we had fondue for dinner with over a doyen different sauces.  Appetizers were the local specialties: Raclette with boiled potatoes, pickles and pearl onions, and a plate of cured and dried beef.  It tasted similar to prosciutto.  The raclette wasn’t stinky at all.  I had flan for dessert, Shane had a crepe, and Aunika had a banana split for the fourth time.

Wow, this blog is boring.  I need an intervention.

Zermatt

Shane here. I haven’t read what Jayna’s been writing, but the rumors are that she’s been making things sound difficult. So here’s my take. Today was a beautiful day for another walk in the hills. Zermatt sits in a valley at the base of the Matterhorn, which is one of the world’s most recognizable peaks, so we owed ourselves the journey to have a closer look. I don’t have the map in front of me, so I’m not sure of the place names, but we walked for around 8 hours, covering close to 1300 meters of vertical up and down. Clouds, cold wind, a bit of snow, and the warm sun all took their turn setting the scene, so layers were constantly being added and removed. Good times. In addition to Ze Matterhorn, notable sights included a herd of ibex (ibexen?), the strangest sheep I’ve ever seen, and a pack of ninjas. I know, I know, photos are required. We’ve got ‘em, but uploading is another story. Ok, I have some photos now. Here’s Jayna facing off against the strange sheep.

Zermatt is a strange town. I’ve never seen so many climbing and mountaineering shops in such a small area. The peaks around here are cool, but clearly someone (I blame the brits) decided that Zermatt is the place to go for a mountaineering holiday, and the rest was history. The mountaineering thing has a serious trickle-down effect though. Last night when we were in the grocery store, I witnessed a fullly goretex-clad (matching tops and bottoms of course) pack of sub-five-foot asians storm the fruit section. No joke. Unfortunately Jayna had the camera back at the hostel and I couldn’t document it. Today on a beautiful day we saw quite a few dayhikers wearing full gortex ski pants as they slogged up through the warm areas low in the valley. Gnarly.

One in three people on the street are wearing Mammut softshells. Turns out Mammut is designed and manufactured in Switzerland. Who knew?

Last night’s grocery store brand gelato was the smoothest store-bought ice cream/gelato I’ve ever experienced. Trader Joe’s, eat zour heart out.

Note to readers that made it this far: We’ve added a couple more photos to the previous posts. Click on the photos to go to the gallerz if zou want. More laterz.

The day of rest

Today was a rest day, thank goodness.  We got to sleep in, eat a relaxing breakfast at the hotel, and then take the bus and train to Interlaken to pick up the stuff we stashed in the hostel.  It rained off and on, so it was good that we were putting down the miles in a train and not on foot.  We’re now in Zermatt, home of the Matterhorn… Although it is foggy so we can’t see it yet.  Sheldon and I are in the internet cafe and everyone else is at the grocery store finding things to cook for dinner tonight at the climbing hostel’s kitchen.

Funny thing I forgot to mention: After dinner and our long hike into Leukerbad, David went to go check his email at the internet cafe down the street.  He returned a while later, kind of sweaty.  The cafe was closed, so instead of coming back to the hotel to go to sleep like any normal person would do, he went to the track (swiss olympic training center) and ran laps.  He is insane.

The day of ridiculously unnecessary detours

Today I built enough character to last me 10 lifetimes.  If one were to give today a title, it would be “The day of ridiculously unnecessary detours.”  And so it began…

Unnecessary detour #1

We took the cable car from leukerbad back up to Gemmipass, where we were yesterday to begin what was called a “medium day.”  Shane proposed an alternate route to avoid backtracking yesterday’s path and also to explore what he and david thought were WWI era tunnels in the side of the rock.  The map showed a reasonable route, but it actuallz involved walking over a verz narrow stone and wood dam over rushing water, which no one but David actuallz tok.  Instead, we walked around the abraided river on an alluvial plain, adding at least a couple of km and over an hour of time.

We continued on our way, over a pass, through some sheep files, and down several snow-covered slopes.  Shane, David and Kjirsten perfected their seated gilssade (sleadding without the sled), inspired by Aunika’s unintentional slide.  David had earlier climbed up ahead of everzone so he could glissade down, just for fun.  He had to hike back up, but he has energy to spare.

Unnecessary detour #2

There were two paths at the top of the pass.  After consulting Kjirsten’s guidebook, we took the one on the left that switch backed down the other side of the mountain.  Wanting to get ahead (I’m slow), I went first and got a pretty good lead… only to get recalled back up the mountain to take the path on the right.

Unnecessary detour #3

The man who wrote Kjirsten’s guidebook is on crack.  What he described as a “surprisinglz easz traverse” was what I’d call “the death march.”  The excessively steep side of the mountain was made of small pieces of flaky rock.  The path was only one shoe wide and sloped downhill at a steep angle.  The hill was eroding and we had to cross several parts that were covered in icz snow.  The wind was howling.

After successfullz completing the death march, we continued down along the ridgeline.  It was so incrediblz windz that I was legitimatelz concerned that I would blow over the side.  I was beat.  Exhausted from the climb and then the stress from the “surprisingly easy traverse,” plus the 5 previous dazs of hiking, all I wanted was to be down in the lovelz cow and barn filled valley that the first left path headed to.  I had heard that there was a gondola that one could take down.  that was all I could think of.  Instead of informing me that we were, in fact, heading into that same vallez (we were on an alternate, longer scenic route) that actually contained the gondola station, Shane told me that we were actually going to the distant town we could see, and that the gondola station was actually a barn.  I was so tired that I didn’t even question whz the barn was on the edge of a cliff or why it was so tall and industrial.  There is no trust.  We could have taken the original path down the mountain and to the gondola, but instead we took the death march, nearly blew off the ridge, all the way around the valley and THEN steeply down to the gondola. 

Unnecessary detour #4

Instead of taking teh bus to the distant town that we saw earlier, “we” decided to walk there.  The sign at the gondola said it was 30 minute walk, but the sign at the road said 1 hr. 20 min.  “we” believed the first sign and walked.  and walked.  and walked.

We walked through suburban neighborhoods with nohthing that looked like a town or hotel or restaurant.  The road forked adn we took the one that pointed to teh bus station, hoping to find a Tourist Information center close to it.  “we” must have read the sign wrong, because we were now on a highway and there were even fewer signs of lodging.  It was close to 6:30 and we were quite hungry and tired.  Someone asked a passerbz how to get to Adelboden, and she pointed up the hill in the opposite direction.  And so we walked… up.

We had no reservations for the night, so kjirsten went into a few places to inquire.  I’m glad we didn’t stay at the first place, which looked like an abandoned haunted house.  We landed at Hotel Viktoria Eden (one double room for us, a triple and two singles) and ate dinner downstairs (everything else in town looked closed) at Thai Mandarin.  It wa spretty good, considering that the menu was in German and the Asian waitress spoke little English. 

It was beautiful weather today but now it is raining.  The weather report downstairs says it’s a “storm from Iceland, which is never good.”

Today’s total ascent: 1076m
Today’s total descent: 2014m
Todaz’s total time spent hiking: 9.5 hours

Leukerbad

Today was supposedly a rest day, as two of us were not feeling, but we still ended up putting in some good 5 hours, ascending 530m and descended 1050.  We took the cable car up to the bottom of a hanging vallez on our way up to Gemmipass, one of the stops on our trip.  We ended up walking around the lake and up to the Gemmipass restaurant and lodge, when we decided just to walk down into Leukerbad, a cute town where we are now.  I think we will be taking the cable car back up to Gemmipass tomorrow to continue on to Adelboden, if the weather holds. 

Pictures and more to come.  It’s sfr15 an hour at this internet cafe, and I have run out of coins.  It’s dinner time for this clean but tired girl.

4 seasons in 1 day: Fri., June 22.

In honor of yesterday’s summer solstice, we experienced all four seasons today.  We got up late (8am), ate breakfast (hot cocoa, bread, jam and cheese, and waited to see if it would clear up so we could see the magnificent views that we worked so hard for yesterday.  We were not successful.  A gentle rain turned to snow, which blew sideways with the stiff wind.  Not wanting to make the downclimb in guaranteed misery, we ate soup for lunch at the hut’s dining room and left around 2pm in the cold fog.

It was literally freezing.  I wore my long johns, shirt, butter yippitz long sleeve shirt, fleece jacket and rain jacket, gloves and hat.  We warmed up through our work, shed layers, only to pile them back on when it started raining… then hailing.  It fluctuated between rain, fog, and sun the entire way down.  We never did get to see the peaks that we intended to see, but the valley by lake Oeschinensee was still magnificent below the cloudline.

We stopped for an apple snack break on a bench overlooking the lake.  The cow’s bells chimed as they moseyed around us.  A very outgoing donkey came by and ate our apple cores out of our hands.

We continued down to Kandersteg, an adorable town in the valley, surrounded by breathtaking peaks and waterfalls.  We are staying at the Hotel Des Alpes, and are now basking in the glory of hot showers (and shaved legs!) and an extremely full bellies.

We at dinner at a restaurant near the stream in the center of town and it was every bit the “gastronomical delight” that the guidebook claimed it to be.  I had  the veal with morel sauce, vegetables and fetuccini.  Shane had a crepe for desert that I stole bites from.

We are all pooped and are looking forward to a good night’s sleep.  My legs are tired but not achey.  And with only one blister (me) amongst the 7 of us, I’d have to say we’re doing quite well.

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