Archive for June, 2009

Green River Rafting

We accepted a last minute invitation to raft a 27 mile portion (3 days) of the Green River with a bunch of Aussies and Canadians at the end of June.  We had a total of about 23 people, including 7 kids under age 12, in three rafts, one float boat and one canoe.  There was never a dull moment.  We caught the huge trout that we watched swimming beneath our rafts, got into water fights, jumped off cliffs, swam, played with sparklers by the campfire and narrowly escaped death and injury around every turn.  It’s a lot harder than you think when you’re trying to watch after a fun bunch of wild animal-children (in the nicest way possible) who have very little self preservation instincts.

Most of the crew after a truckload headed home early.

The beginning of the section we rafted. We meandered through sheer cliffs and crumbly canyons with great views.

Day two: getting through Mother in Law rapids.  Note the capsized boat stuck on a rock in the middle.  That accident was written up in the paper.  We made it through unscathed and decided to stop for a little fishing and lunch.

Shane and one of the many catches of the weekend.  We only ate a few of them since we had no volunteers to clean them.

Not entirely sure how we got all this stuff into the rafts. I don’t think they’ve heard of the term “ultra-light” before.  We had a “portable” grill the size of my stove at home and about 7 or 8 coolers. We ate well and I’m sure glad we didn’t have to carry all that stuff on our backs.

View from our campsite the 3rd day.

Me and Joy cooking up some left over convention sweet and sour pork on our “portable grill.”  That thing was massive.

Someone thought it would  be great fun to put all of the kids in Shane and my boat for the last haul down the river.  We survived the boat ride and there was only one sibling-induced bloody nose.  I’d call that a success.

Here are Jed (5) and Leah (3) in a rare moment of stillness.

Day 5: Topkapi Palace

After a late start after sleeping in and figuring out tomorrow’s travel plans, we headed off to our last sight in Istanbul: Topkapi Palace.

The palace was built for the sultan’s pleasure and it appeared that they spared no expense.  We went through room after room decorated in amazingly intricate tile and gold walls and ceilings, formal gardens with views, and saw about 10 different thrones that the sultan got to choose from.  Among the other impressive artifacts, they also had holy relics like the prophet’s beard, John the Baptist’s arm and skull, Moses’ rod (a well worn stick, must have been used for a few years), among other things.

Ornate ceiling

Because everyone needs a niche to store your turban

Shane went on to visit the harem (an additional 15 YTL) and then we headed back to the bazaar for some last minute things.

Vegetable stand outside the market

On our way back, we took a different route through a more local market area, where we were the only tourists.  We witnessed an alteration involving a knife (and turned back to go a different way in a hurry), and saw the most amusing sight of an old Turkish grandma smirking and slowly turning and shooting diners at an outdoor cafe with a toy gun that lit up and made noise.

We’re taking the early flight back to Frankfurt tomorrow, leaving the hotel at about the same time we arrived just 5 days ago.  The alarm is set for 3:45 am, before the first morning call to prayer.  UFTA.

Day 4: Bosphorous Cruise and Turkish Bath

The Bosphorous Cruise (actually just a commuter ferry) was worth every one of the 3 stars that the guidebook gave it.  For 20 YTL each, Shane, David and I walked down to the dock and enjoyed 7 hours of amazing views of old town Istanbul, colorful mansions, ancient fortresses, suspension bridges and fishing villages.  We got off at the end of the ride at the mouth of the Black Sea in a tiny town called Anadolu Kavagi, where we bought a picnic lunch from a market (loaf of bread, goat cheese, cherries, tomatoes and apples) and hoofed it up to the Yoros Castle where we scaled one of the walls to sit on top in the shade and enjoy breathtaking views.

Castle!

Village and bridge

View from the Yoros Castle

David on the castle wall

Shane never misses and opportunity to slack-pipe

The village

We made it home at around 5 pm and meandered our way over to the Cemberlitas Hamami, a historic Turkish bath built in 1584.  Now THAT was quite the experience.  For 55 YTL, we experienced the works.  The men and women are segregated and apparently experience very different things.  Carla and I changed into our towels and and were instructed to lie down on a warm marble slab by a monstrous 1/2 naked Turkish women who spoke no english and proceeded to scrub, suds adn massage every last inch of our bodies.  I think we’re each a few pounds lighter as a combination of our skin and sweat disappeared.

Carla and I, pre scrub

The boys, post scrub

Noticeably cleaner

After staggering out of the hamami a few hours later, we sought out non-kebab dinner (there’s no variety here), stumbled on a Turkish concert in a park, and took night photos near the Mosques.

The concert. No, that’s not Disneyland; that’s Hagia Sofia

Dusk

Turkish ice cream is more than ice cream; it’s an experience (and a rip off!)

Blue Mosque at night

Blue Mosque

Hagia Sofia

Whirling Dervish

What a day.

Day 3: Grand Bazaar and Spice Market

Turns out the weather man changed his mond.  Instead of last night’s perfect boating weather forecawst, this morning’s report was for clouds with a chance of rain.  So we switched our plans and hit up the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market instead.

To put it simply, the Bazaar is overwhelming.  The extreme crowds, pushy vendors and floor to ceiling products made for a sensory overload.  The bazaar is a mini city in itself, with marked streets and distinct districts.  We used our best bargaining skills and were able to successfully acquire brass pepper mills, plates, “designer” jeans, tea and an assorted box of Turkish Delight.  We were ripped off at our lunch inside (who heard of a lunch cover charge?!), experienced Intense Turkish coffee (like sludge in an espresso cup), learned about carpets over apple tea (with a merchant who knew full well we weren’t potential customers), were called “stupid” by one disgruntled potential vendor, and headed over to the Spice Market.  Overwhelming indeed.

Outside the bazaar

Inside the bazaar

Sipping the sludge, aka Turkish coffee.  You had to specify that you wanted sugar in it when you ordered, as they cook the sugar into it.

Outside the market

Although even more crowded, the Spice Market was a breath of fresh air.  The vendors were friendlier, offering samples of treats and easily accepting the fact that we were “just looking.”

The Spice Market was a bit more crowded.

Spices!

Turkish Delight

The Turks love Obama and Comic Sans

Essential Oils

Cheese in fur.  We didn’t get any of this.

Outside the spice market, the shops continued.  Like the other makrets we’ve been to across the world, there were distinct districts here.  We passed through areas for clothing, belts, linens, pottery, guns, store fixtures and mannequins, buttons and fasteners, hunting gear, cookware, plants, and pets.

The crew in front of Hagia Sofia

We continued across teh Marmara Sea on a bridge filled with fishermen who were apparently catching bait fish among the trash and jellyfish below.

We opted to head back to the hotel at around 6:30, after 8.5 hours of pure walking.  We are pooped!

Reading books on our rooftop balcony